Відео

Glad you got to watch! Night Drive put on a terrific performance.

Back in the day when these torches were the main source of portable heat, leather, cork and special papers were the main sources for seals and gaskets. These material worked very well if used properly. For your new leather seal, I would recommend coating it with some wheel bearing grease before installing. This will help it seal better and keep it flexible. Before lighting, leak test the torch while under pressure with bubble soap or commercial leak detector. Good luck!

You’re welcome! Thanks for letting me know.

Either Coleman or Crown brand camp fuel.

These torches put out a very large amount of heat for just a few cents compaired to buying disposable propane cylinders. However, you might keep in mind that for operations like brazing, propane does burn slightly hotter than white gas and most propane torches provide a more pencil-point flame. Hope you can find a good blow torch!

I would guess about 25 minutes. I never operated it non-stop from full to empty.

Actual replacemant parts are not easy to find because these torches are so old. Most people who restore them make the necessary parts from items and material available at hardware, auto part and craft stores. When I restored this torch, the seal for the main valve shaft was made by twisting teflon plumbers tape into a string. This string was then wound around the shaft, packed into the valve body and contained with the packing nut. You could also use commercial graphite string packing available at hardware stores. The seal for the cap on the pump was cut from gasoline proof gasket material using hole punches. A larger punch was used to cut the outside diameter and a smaller punch to cut the opening for the pump cylinder. The main pump piston seal (cup) was made by cutting a disk from a piece of 1/16" thick leather. The leather was soaked with oil and hand-formed over a metal rod to form it into the cupped shape that was required. The pump had a check valve made from cork. I used a small hole punch to cut a new seal from some 1/8" thick cork gasket material. Here are some videos that show how to make leather piston seals (cups). ua-cam.com/video/_bwF6yHyUq0/v-deo.html and ua-cam.com/video/6xFhThdnYqE/v-deo.html. Good luck!

With camp fuel it burns around 2400 degrees F. It can melt copper which melts at around 1983 degrees F. However, this type of torch could only melt a very small amount of copper and only with direct heat.

Very interesting! I believe several other important things including the wheel were first used there. Thanks for the comment.

I did not because the seal is shaped quiet a differently on each end. However, a couple of years ago, another UA-camr made a video of flipping the seal. Said he would test it and report back. I just tried the link I saved to his video to see if he had any luck, but the video has been taken down.

@@Allen-Dennis hard to tell , looked same in vid . thanks for the info .

Around 2400 degrees F.

Towards the shut off valve. Under the burner, there is a passage for the liquid fuel where it is heated to vaporize before exiting the valve.

These torches don't explode because there is no ignition source available inside the fuel tank. However, with a defective torch there is a very real danger of fire and injury if there are any leaks where fuel or fuel vapor could escape and be ignited by the pre-warming flame. Before lighting, these torches must be tested for leaks under pressure and any leaks found must be repaired. Leak sources include the burner-to-tank pipe threads, seal for the pump to tank, pump piston, check valve in the pump and the packing for the control valve(s). To be completely safe, some people use water for leak testing. Do more research and learn all you can before lighting. Good luck and be careful!!

@@Allen-Dennis Thank you very much these tips. Yes, the importance of testing the equipment for leaks prior to using, similar to how you would check the fittings on a B.B.Q / tank with soap and water.

If you are in the USA and your torch looks similar to the one in the video, it was most likely designed for "white gas" which was widely available at gas stations when these torches were being made. Now days, the best substustitute is camping fuel. You could try kerosense, but you will need to use some type of wick in the heating pan, or use alcohol for the preheating flame. Not sure what red fuel is. Possibly off-road diesel? If so, I don't think diesel would vaporize sufficently.

@Allen-Dennis Red fuel is basically the same thing as white fuel but a little different And yes, I'm in the United States. Some of the video said it took kerosene Sum said gas and some said white fuel

If you get it working on kerosene, please send another reply. Below is a link to a video of a torch that user says burns kerosene. You can see that the design looks different than my torch which was made for white gas. ua-cam.com/video/fS8OnK-QCGI/v-deo.html@@nicklandak6882

@@Allen-Dennis cool thanks

I've been repairing engines and carburetors for many years and already had the materials for making the parts. The seal for the main valve shaft was made by twisting teflon plumbers tape into a string. This string was then wound around the shaft, packed into the valve body and contained with the packing nut. You could also use commercial graphite string packing available at hardware stores. The seal for the cap on the pump was cut from gasoline proof gasket material using hole punches. A larger punch was used to cut the outside diameter and a smaller punch to cut the opening for the pump cylinder. The main pump piston seal was made by cutting a disk from a piece of 1/16" thick leather. The leather was soaked with oil and hand-formed over a metal rod to form it into the cupped shape that was required. The pump had a check valve made from cork. I used a small hole punch to cut a new seal from some 1/8" thick cork gasket material. Good luck with your rebuild!

This torch was actually my grandfathers. Unfortunately, he passed away long before UA-cam arrived but, I know he would have REALLY liked seeing this video! If you have basic mechanical skills and you are CAREFULL, you should be able to get a torch going safely like thousands of craftsman have done over nearly 100 years. However, only you really know your limitations. I'd recommend watching as many videos as possible and researching blowtorches on the internet. Lots of good info. This will help you decide about getting them fired up. Good luck and thanks for the comment!

@@Allen-DennisThats the plan, im 29 and i intend to keep as much of this knowledge alive as possible for when the grid goes down and we are all fucked.

Good info! Thanks for sharing.

Such a great application for these torches! Large amounts of heat with affordable fuel. Thanks for sharing the info.😊

I’d say about 3 minutes, give or take depending on temperature and wind conditions.

Yes, the white you mentioned is what is called the inner cone of the flame. It’s generally the hottest part of the flame. When you see that bluish-white, you know that the air/fuel ratio is just right and the burner is working properly.

These old torches are great conversation pieces worth displaying!

You're not the first! Hope you enjoyed the video.😃

No problem! As a matter of fact, I just updated the title to reflect the more proper term of prevention rather than protection device. Always happy to have a new viewer. Glad you enjoyed the video.

You are so right! Fortunately, I used the correct term in the descripition when first publishing the video. I just edited the descripition to explain my spoken mistake. Thanks for the comment!

Thank you, and thanks for the tip!

Yes. You always pump about 30 times before first lighting. The low pressure makes it easier to control fuel flow before the burner reaches operating temperature. If the tank is at full pressure before lighting, there is a good chance for a dangerous stream of burning fuel to shoot several feet, sort of like a flame thrower. After the burner reaches full heat, you can pump the pressure to the point of where it becomes very uncomfortable for your thumb. By then, the torch is roaring like in the video.

Not everyday that you get to see Warthogs! The A-10s made a nice pass in route to the flyover. I almost missed them. I only had time to grab my iPhone which does not have much of a zoom lens. However, it was recorded in 4K which shows some fair detail at least at the start. If you have not done so, you might want to go to the settings and play it at 0.25 speed and 2160 quality.

If you play back the video at .25 speed, and 1080p HD, you can see at 0:12 NAVY markings under the left wing. The P-8A is based on the 737-800, but has swept-back wingtips instead of winglets as used on the commercial planes. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!

Good luck with it!!

I have one of my grandfather’s rasps. Probably what he used to shape the lead body filler after applying it with this very torch. Good old days:-)

The best fuels are the ones made for camping equipment like lanterns and stoves. It is much better than automotive unleaded gasoline which is known to deteriorate much faster and cause problems with corrosion and varnish deposits. The camping fuels are also somewhat deodorized and contain rust inhibitors.

and common kerosene will do? because it also inhibits rust

@@resgatemusical.2070 I don’t think kerosene as I know it would work well in my torch. Because of it’s much higher flash point, it would be difficult to ignite in the priming pan. Kerosene might work if some type of wick was used in the pan. There might be torches specifically designed for kerosene, but I have not used one or know anyone who has. There could be some confusion in that some people might call white gas or naptha kerosene, but they are not. White gas and naphtha are more similar to camping fuel.

You’re welcome!

If you’re near a Walmart, check with them. I see that some locations will take your old tanks in exchange for a refilled Blue Rhino brand tank. Good luck!

@@Allen-Dennis thanks! I took them to a local Lowe's and got that accomplished! Now I get my military discount too! I thought getting rid of them was gonna be a PITA.

@@brianxcunningham Good to know that Lowe’s will also exchange bad tanks. Thanks for sharing the info!

Thank you!

Yes, one of the other UA-camrs said that’s how the term Lead Sled originated!

I think the sound would be VERY similar. The 2014 CR-4 also has a 16 valve 2.4L K24 engine. If you liked the Super 40 on mine, I think you would like it on yours! If you do decide on a Flowmaster, be sure to use a Super series as they provide more flow compared to the regular. Otherwise, you could end up with more back pressure than you glass pack.

@@Allen-Dennis Thanks. I might swap the glasspack with a flowmaster. The resonator is currently off and it sounds too loud. Im looking to put it back on there tmrw hopefully. Do you think the flowmaster would be more, less, or abt the same in volume?

@@mon2u If you re-install the resonator with the glass pack it will be quieter. The resonator doesn’t really add any back pressure so it won’t hurt performance. If you like the sound, this could save the cost of a new muffler. Without the resonator, a Super 40 will probably be louder than mine. The length and especially the diameter of the tail pipe will have a substantial effect on droning and or roaring inside the car. Reducing the diameter of a tail pipe by 1/2” can eliminate in-car droning and have almost no effect on performance.

@@Allen-Dennis Whenever I install the resonator, will it be as loud as a super 40? Will it sound similar? Also my bad If im asking too may questions.

@@mon2u I’m guessing that the glass pack with the resonator will be about the same or slightly louder than my Super 40 setup. Will depend on the core diameter and length of the glass pack. It will most likely have a slightly deeper tone than a Flowmaster.